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Diary: River Drau Cycle Path, Austria

July 1999
Rebecca's Guide to the Drau Radweg
(Drau Cycle Path)
'A landscape like a picturebook in which you can walk,' is how one village describes the valley of the Drau in the state of Carinthiua in Austria. They don’t mention you can cycle through it, too.

In fact, there's a signposted cycle path from the Italian border through the Eastern Tirol in Austria to the Slovenian border. And it is wonderful. Beautiful, quiet and with only gentle gradients.

In fact, we recommend you do it from bottom to top! But we defy you to notice that it goes uphill. And everything about it is so easy...

You can hire bikes (child’s bike around GBP22.50/15* per week, 'citybikes' GBP 35/22* per week, MTBs cost one-third more and child seats GBP3.50/3* per week, from all major rail stations, and if you have arrived by train you get a substantial discount*. (See also the Austrian Railways web site, or e-mail rentabike@aon.at.)

Every village and town has accommodation and most have tourist information offices to make it even easier. Signs on the route specifically target cyclists... Fahrradfreundliche Hotel/ Pension/Dorf (cycle-friendly hotel/ B and B/ village); Heidi's Radlertreff (Heidi's café/ bar for cyclists). There are camp sites - all scrupulously clean and often on a lake or next to an open air pool, both of which equal 'swimming opportunity' in land-locked Austria; rooms (Zimmer), hotels and so many route signs, R1, you can almost dispense with a map...

As you travel from west to east the valley and the river (which much, much further south, flows into the Danube) is wide and the water vibrant turquoise. Where the Drau marks the border with Italy, it's a trickle, but by now you are among the craggy, towering Dolomites.

The Drau Radweg is much more intimate than the Danube path: it goes through villages and sometimes even farmyards. There are fewer cyclists and and a greater variety of scenery. In short it rivals, even surpasses, its much more well-known counterpart.

DETAILS
AT A GLANCE

ROUTE LENGTH: 251km

FROM: Dobbiaco/Toblach, Italy

TO: Bleiburg (Austrian/Slovenian border)

MAPS: Buy on arrival. Available in every tourist info, every bookstall, every bookshop

SURFACE: Mostly good tracks (we used touring bikes)

GRADIENT: Imperceptible

ACCOMMODATION: All types, including ‘cycle-friendly’ lodgings; for all budgets

HIGHLIGHTS: Swimming in lakes, hiking, the stretch between Lind and Oberdrauburg, spotting onion domes, relaxing over coffee and cakes in the ubiquitous cafes, day trips to Venice...

GETTING THERE: Fly to Innsbruck (for the source and take the train over the Brenner Pass!) or fly to Salzburg or Wien and get a train to Voelkermarkt, near Klagenfurt

SUITABLE FOR: All ages, levels of fitness, spur of the moment decisions

Rob's account of our trip up the Drau...
We cycled up the River Drau (Drava in Slovenia or Croatia), which, working upstream, runs from the Danube in Croatia/Hungary; past the old town of Maribor in Slovenia (home of the world's oldest vine at 400 years old, plus the world's most miserable git in charge of a guesthouse); up into Austria; and up to the source in the far north of Italy. Yes, we know that's cycling uphill.


Some lovely outdor baths en route, where Rob showed off his excellent diving prowess.
You can drink some of it too, and the handy roadside water pumps are carved in gargoyle-like designs. We have no idea why.